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"Soon the valley broadened to half a mile We crossed the river, now a weaving crystalline band the colour of sapphire, several times on narrow wooden bridges reinforced with lengths of military truck chassis or rusting Russian pontoons everywhere these forgotten splinters of what had been the pride of Soviet armour were being absorbed organically back into the land"
- Jason Elliot, An Unexpected Light
The Panjshir Valley is one of the most beautiful parts of Afghanistan, and is readily accessed on a day trip from Kabul It is most famously associated with the mujaheddin leader Ahmad Shah Massoud Massoud's fighters successfully repelled nearly a dozen Soviet offensives here in the 1980s Massoud was assassinated by suicide bombers two days before 9/11 and is buried in the Panjshir Valley
The Northern Alliance remains dominated by Panjshiri Tajiks, and several ministers come from the valley Never captured by either the Soviets or the Taliban, Panjshir was formally upgraded to provincial status in 2003, as recognition of the part it played in the country's struggles - and recognition of the current political influence of the Panjshiris
The serene setting on the valley could make it an ideal trekking destination At the head of the valley is the Anjuman Pass (4430m), over which Alexander the Great drove his troops in the depths of winter
Travellers have reported different experiences trying to enter the Panjshir Valley Some have been required to carry a permit from the Defence Ministry, although none is technically needed The reason is that the valley is the stronghold of the Panjshiri Tajiks, who continue to dominate the Defence Ministry Permits seem to be most often asked of those making day trips to Panjshir from Kabul and whose drivers are non-Tajik If in doubt, take a Panjshiri driver Those visiting by public transport - minibuses from Charikar for example should have few such problems The continued symbolic and military importance of the valley means that security is still tight, and at the least you will probably be asked to show a copy of your passport The road through Panjshir is poor (although currently being upgraded), but aside from this, there are no outstanding security issues
Massoud's Mausoleum, a small green-domed building is sits above his home village of Jangalak There is a chaikhana in the village where is it possible to sleep It is also possible to stay at a guesthouse in Astana, the next village up the valley
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Kabul
The Panjshir Valley